HOW TO COPE WITH FINE HAIR

14th June 2019

Ph: Patrick Demarchelier Hair: Neil Moodie

Ph: Patrick Demarchelier Hair: Neil Moodie

Fine hair is always an issue for people who have it. I’m constantly being asked, how to cope with it, what to do with it, what haircut to have when you have it.

In this post I’m giving out my recommendations of care, products and styles to help with this issue. I hope there’s some solutions here for you one way or another. Of course, DM me if you have any more questions.

USE A DETANGLING SPRAY

A lot of them contain vitamins and minerals so they can help with the result when you’re styling it. Apply this all the way through your hair rather than just spritzing over the top or front of your hair.

These can also be known as Primers Some of my recommendations are:

Biolage Blowdry Glotion: A heat primer that lets you shape and reshape hair with a 450 degree thermal protection for fast, healthy-looking and frizz controlled blowouts

Wella Elements Conditioning Leave In Spray: A dual-phase spray that cares and protects hair from day to day stress and gives a gentle hold. 

Shu Uemura Wonder Worker : Smoothes, detangles, softens and fights frizz

Kevin Murphy Untangled: enriched with Australian fruit extracts

Childs Farm Hair Detangler for kids: contains grapefruit and tea tree oil infused formula which even helps keep head lice at bay.

VO5 Express Primer Spray ( great if you’re on a budget): with built-in 230 degree heat protection

Ph Credit: GHD

Ph Credit: GHD

USING THE RIGHT TOOLS

Rake combs or wide tooth combs are good for fine hair because a finer comb will potentially not only damage your hair and make it break off but it will also remove the texture your hair does have and flatten it. After shampooing finer hair can tend to tangle more easily. Remember when your hair is wet it becomes more elasticated making it weaker and more fragile. Water breaks down the natural hydrogen bonds in our hair and they reform again when the hair dries off.

Always brush your hair through before shampooing and it’s imperative to comb it through when you have conditioner in it. When combing always start at the ends and work your way up to the roots NOT the other way round. If you start at the roots you will basically bring all the tangles together to a point and then it will be harder to get them out.

The GHD Carbon Anti Static Detangling comb is good and also the Tangle Teaser is an excellent product too. They now also do a wet detangler.

DRYING YOUR HAIR AFTER SHAMPOOING

After shampooing your hair try to just squeeze your hair with a towel instead of rubbing and matting your hair into a tangled mess. I know wrapping your hair into a head wrap is fun and looks great, but it’s actually not really good for your hair as it’s just basically tangling it up even more. This is actually a general rule for all hair types but extremely relevant for fine hair.

BRUSHING

Ph: Neil Moodie

Ph: Neil Moodie

I always recommend to brush longer hair everyday to loosen any stray strands. We lose on average about 120 hairs a day to make way for new ones. People with longer hair tend to always say to me

“ my hair falls out a lot” but most of the time it’s because when it’s longer you can see the hairs more than when they are shorter. Also if you get the hair out of your plug after a shower or bath you’ll notice that long hair looks dense, but if actually unravel it ( which I know most of you wouldn’t do…) it’s a lot less hair than you think.

A good hairbrush can also stimulate the scalp thus helping to encourage new hair growth. I still think the best on the market is a Mason and Pearson brush. There are many similar ones, but if you try a Mason brush you won’t look back. They cost more money initially but they are super durable and last forever, unless your friend steals it from you LOLz.

THICKENING SPRAYS & CREAMS

Concentrate especially on the root area, as this is where hair tends to go flat. Section the top of your hair and spray throughout from the root downwards. It’s a bit like scaffolding for the hair, so it gives your hair extra support and holds the volume.

There are so many thickening products on the market If your hair is finer I would suggest something a little stronger in hold, but make sure it’s not too sticky. If there’s a sample in the shop then put a little on your fingers and let the product dry off. See how sticky it feels as it drys and once it’s actually dry. If it feels like glue then it’s probably not for you

L’oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Pli is a fantastic product for giving volume and hold. It’s a heat-activated Spray that gives shape, and memory to the hair. I like it because you can layer it if you need more.

Ph Credit: @Burberry Hair by Neil Moodie

Ph Credit: @Burberry Hair by Neil Moodie

TRY DIFFUSE DRYING YOUR HAIR FOR MORE TEXTURE

By using a diffuser on the hair dryer you can speed up the process of naturally drying the hair, to retain natural waves. Lift your hair from the root using the fingers to add more lift.

If you cannot find a regular diffuser to fit your hair then you can get what’s known as a sock diffuser.

Hot sock is a popular brand although there are now quite a few on the market to buy from either Sally Beauty, Amazon or eBay.

LONG LAYERS

You have to be careful when layering fine hair as it can actually make the hair looker thinner and mire see through if the layering is done incorrectly. On longer hair I suggest long layers which allows you to keep the length but helps to lift the hair at the roots a little as the weight of it is lighter and gravity doesn’t pull it down as much.

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SHORT FINE HAIR

If you like to keep your hair shorter then I suggest to keep the top of the hair heavier and a little longer which will create the illusion of thickness and then shorten the sides and the back. The shorter sides and back will support the longer length on top. Again, don’t cut the layers too short on the top as the will look more see through thus making it instantly look thicker.

WAVE’S GIVE VOLUME

Using a large curling iron is a good way to add more waves to your hair. Always spray your hair with a heat protectant hairspray before using any kind of heat tool and ideally if you can spray each section of hair you wave individually then even better. Follow your hair’s natural waves to define them. Alternate the direction of the waves for a more natural look. You can check out the youtube video I made for Make Up artist Wendy Rowe’s channel where I show you how to create more volume with waves.

Gently brush through the waves to give a more natural, undone finish.

This gives a really nice natural look, but it’s quite a polished natural. It’s similar to looks I’ve created recently on Gemma Chan. Your hair will feel and look shinier, healthier, and smoother without being flat.

Image Credit: @invisibobble

Image Credit: @invisibobble

TYING HAIR UP

If you’re one of those long haired people who like to tie your hair up, then for fine hair I suggest to not tie your hair too tight or with an extremely thin elastic.

A softer tie is better, a fabric scrunchie or Invisibobbles are great. Even a silk scarf is great too. These also make your hair look far more pretty in the long run, than just a regular old elastic hair tie which can easily damage your hair and make it break.

BED HAIR  

When asleep our head rubs against the pillow (obviously!) and as a result, the hair tangles pretty easily, for finer hair this can be even worse. You’ll hear me say this a lot - try buying a silk pillow… Your hair will be happy and also it actually feels great and silly and soft to sleep on. if a silk pillow is too expensive then just try to invest in the softest cotton you can find. Polished cotton, or sateen cotton pillows are better than regular cotton.

SUPPLEMENTS

I’m a great believer in supplements and I know that a healthy diet can really help with hair health too, but sometimes we just don’t get enough.

Healthy hair generally needs iron, folic acid, and zinc to keep growing thick and strong. Omega 3 and Omega-6 fatty acids help with healthy hair growth too and are called essential fatty acids, because they can’t be produced by the human body.

Omega-6 is important for general skin care health, which might in turn benefit the scalp. Omega 3 and 6 can normally be found in fish although you can get supplements if you’re not a big fish eater.

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Another great supplement which I’ve been taking for years is Viviscal. It contains Biotin, Zinc and AminoMar C ( an ingredient unique to Viviscal)  to help maintain healthy hair. They also have shampoos and conditioners etc. Rather than me explain it all here, I suggest to go and check out their website by clicking HERE


I hope that’s all helped and as I mentioned before if you have anymore questions then please don’t hesitate to DM me

FRINGES/BANGS. WHICH ONE FOR WHICH FACE??

Ph: John Akehurst for Vogue Japan

Ph: John Akehurst for Vogue Japan






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An Oval Face: Known as an oval or a diamond shaped face, this is normally a rounded jawline, and a wider forehead with accentuated cheek bones. Think Kate Moss shape.

If you have this face shape then you are super lucky as you can pull off any fringe cut going. This is considered one of the most versatile face shapes So my recommendations would be to have whatever you feel suits you, your style and dress sense.

Oval Face Celebrities: Julianne Moore, Kate Middleton, Jessica Alba, Oprah Winfrey, Carey Mulligan.

 
Ph: Jem Mitchell for Turkish Vogue

Ph: Jem Mitchell for Turkish Vogue

8TH MAY 2019

FRINGES (or BANGS FOR ANY US READERS), ARE A GREAT WAY TO CHANGE YOUR HAIRSTYLE.

What’s fashionable and what isn’t is difficult to say these days as fashion and beauty moves so fast and trends tend not to last that long anymore.

So, rather than me telling you what’s hot and what’s not, I decided it’s better to let you know what suits what face and then you can decide.

I’ve always loved a rock and roll fringe personally, sitting below the eyebrows, almost hiding behind it with a bit of texture to it, but I know that’s not for everybody so I won’t be selfish here!

Let’s take a look at what you might have and we’ll go from there………

There are 5 main face shapes to look at: Round face, Oval face, Square face, Long Face and Heart shaped.
See which one is you from the images below:

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Ph: Jem Mitchell for Vogue China

Ph: Jem Mitchell for Vogue China

A Square Face: Square faces are of equal width and height, and a have a defined square jawline. The most obvious choice of fringe cut here is the side fringe. Basically, one that is cut to wear over to the side. Cutting them from mid-eyebrow to just below the eyebrow or even a little lower is ideal and you should push them to either side, ( whichever you prefer) or even part them down the middle. Either way, don’t cut them too short. otherwise they will accentuate the squareness. You want to try and soften out the squareness so anything that cuts into the face shape a little will automatically soften it down and reduce sharpness.

Celebrities with Square faces: Rihanna, Lucy Liu, Kristin Wiig, Keira Knightley, Kate Hudson’s

A Heart-Shaped Face: This face shape has a wider forehead, a pointed jaw and a small chin. A long layered fringe that is sweeping across to the side from a centre parting is ideal for drawing attention to your eyes and the middle of your face. Heart shaped faces tend to have strong cheekbones so accentuating those is imperative as it takes away the focus from your more pointed chin. I suggest to cut the fringe from the eyebrow to the top of the cheekbone

Hally Berry, Eva Longoria, Scarlett Johansson Reese Witherspoon,

A Round Face:  A rounder face identifies as fuller with wider cheeks. A shorter, layered fringe is a great way to give the illusion of more length in the face. This is also sometimes known as a micro fringe. My recommendation would be not to go too wide with the width of the fringe as it can accentuate the roundness, but this type of fringe is a great way to show off your eyes. The rest of the length of your hair will keep the face looking a little narrower and not so round.

Another option is the heavier side-swept fringe, cut at a strong angle and a little softer around the edges. This cuts into the round face a little again giving the illusions of it being less round, and adding some depth to the face.

Round face celebrities: Cameron Diaz, Michelle Williams, Queen Latifah, Drew Barrymore, Gemma Chan, Miranda Kerr, Penelope Cruz.

A Long Face and/or High Forehead: With this face shape the forehead, cheeks and jawline are all about the same width. Ideally a a chunkier, fuller, longer fringe helps to give the illusion of a smaller face. Try a longer fringe that gets longer at the sides. If committing to a heavy block fringe seems too much for you then break the fringe up slightly by not having so much hair cut into the fringe, but still keeping the length of it longer to achieve a similar look. .

NB: Also keep the length of the rest of your hair a little shorter. The longer your hair generally is the more your face will elongate.

Celebrities with long faces: Liv Tyler, Nicole Kidman, Iman, Meryl Streep

So I hope that helps you all in choosing the right fringe/bangs for you. Of course, always ask your stylist for their recommendations too, and if you want to see what you look like with a fringe there are temporary options available like clip-in fringes or even try on a wig. I suggest to try on something close to your own colour as it will be more realistic. It’s fun if nothing else.

Happy fringing.



LETTER F FOR FRIZZ FROM MY "ALPHABET OF HAIR" NOW LIVE

F for Frizz .jpg

7TH MAY 2019

This weeks “Alphabet of Hair” is a very popular one.

How to combat Frizz!!

So many people have to deal with Frizz.  Men, Women, Children and Me. 

What is frizz? Well that depends on your hair type. 

The three main causes of frizz are genetics, hair damage, and humidity.  In this video I deal with the causes,  the remedies,  plus give you some great product recommendations to help counteract the frizz and hopefully help you to  have a frizz-less day. 

PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS AND LINKS FROM MY VIDEO BELOW

BIOLAGE SmoothProof Deep Treatment Pack Hair Mask for Frizzy Hair : http://bit.ly/2ZJulah

BIOLAGE Smoothproof Shampoo : https://amzn.to/2GKYX2o

Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame Smoothing Cream : http://bit.ly/2WiCBfg

Shu Uemura Essence Absolue Oil-In-Cream : https://amzn.to/2URV8NJ

DevaCurl DevaTowel Anti-Frizz Microfiber Towel : https://amzn.to/2IQZyD5

Ouai Anti-Frizz Hair Sheets : http://bit.ly/2ISBnnX

Living Proof No-Frizz Instant De-Frizzer : http://bit.ly/2vtduKQ

Kérastase Discipline Anti Frizz Smoothing Spray : https://amzn.to/2GN6r56

Biolage RAW Frizz Control Styling Spray: http://bit.ly/2ISuzXu

PH BALANCED PRODUCTS.

Wella SP Balance Scalp Shampoo: https://amzn.to/2PE3B6k

Le Labo Shampoo : http://bit.ly/2ZKbjQV

Evolve Superfood Shine Shampoo : http://bit.ly/2Y0sqw3

Kiehl's Olive Fruit Oil Nourishing Shampoo : http://bit.ly/2Wbx4XL

Kérastase Bain Oléo-Relax : http://bit.ly/2DF5P0q

F Frizz Blonde .jpg

FOR SUPER COARSE or CURLY HAIR

Dizziak Hydrating Wash & conditioner : http://bit.ly/2VxAoiZ

HIGH STREET RECOMMENDATIONS

Garnier Fructis Smoothing 1 Minute Avocado Hair Mask : https://amzn.to/2GLvNA3

John Frieda Frizz Ease Extra Strength Effects Serum: http://bit.ly/2PGM39w

Schwarzkopf Gliss Oil Nutritive Weightless Oil : http://bit.ly/2PEmuGlD

TO SHAMPOO OR NOT TO SHAMPOO THAT IS THE QUESTION ??

Ph: Alexi Lubomirski

Ph: Alexi Lubomirski

How Often?  So I believe everyday isn’t a bad thing but it really depends on what product you’re using and your hair type. 

Shampoo helps water remove dirt, debris, and odours. Most shampoos are designed to strip excess oil, which helps the hair look cleaner for longer. Shampoo cleans the hair with chemicals called surfactants ( short for surface-active-agents) that are soaps used to clean the surface debris off hair. 

The most popular surfactants used are know as Anionic Surfactants, which carry a negative charge in water.  They provide a lot of the lather and detergent in the shampoo. These are broken down into what are known as sulphates ie: sodium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate and other sulphates. NB “sulphates” can often be spelt “sulfates”

 Should your hair be very oily/greasy, which is generally, people with very fine or straight hair I suggest to wash daily with a sulphate based shampoo, which can help make your hair easier to manage in between shampoos. If you have a very oily scalp this can progress into acne along the hairline, meaning you might need to wash your hair more often to keep it looking clean. 

 I would suggest that anybody with super dry hair doesn’t necessarily need to wash it daily. Washing less often preserves the natural oils produced by the scalp, keeping hair more nourished. 

I’d advise to use a low sulphate or no sulphate shampoo. 

As i mentioned earlier sulphates ( surfactants) are what give you the lovely lather and can help get rid of product build up in hair. The problem being with these is that they can be pretty harsh on your actual hair as they’re known for drying hair out. They can cause irritation to your scalp.  There are links to cancer with sulphates too but with no real proof as of yet. 

Sulphates have been used for years in shampoos and a lot of product companies have now gone down the “no sulphate” route as an option for customers, which are definitely milder and are thought to cause less irritation, for people but this means less lather. 

Sulphate-free shampoo is a good idea for anyone who has severely damaged hair

Generally if you buy a cheaper generic brand from the chemist, then it’s quite likely to contain a lot of sulphates. Sulphates are what are known as cleansing agents. You can find these in varying quantities in shampoo, washing up liquid, floor cleaners etc., anything that cleans basically.  

 Whichever way you shampoo your hair, I always remind people to give their scalp a good massage too. Many people forget to do this as they’re concentrating only on their hair. 

Remember, your scalp is skin also but just with hair all over it, unless you’re bald or suffering from alopecia.  It sweats, sheds dead skin cells and gives off sebum oil, so it reacts the same way as skin does. 

If you use a harsh skin products then your face and/or body can feel dry and irritated, well it’s the same with the scalp.   Dry scalps also tend not to produce as much sebum. Washing your hair frequently can prevent itching and flaking, and help keep the scalp healthier, in turn helping to keep the hair soft and shiny too.

If you’re suffering from dandruff or seborrhoeic eczema. Look for products with witch hazel or camphor in them to help the scalp. 

I also suggest massaging olive oil onto a dry scalp at night and leaving it overnight, then shampooing it out in the morning.

 Which ever way you shampoo, always try to rinse your hair and scalp with cold water too at the end. This helps to closes the pores on the scalp and flattens the cuticles on hair. A smoother flatter cuticle reflects light, making your hair appear shinier. (now that’s always a good thing) 1st

NB: In between washes you can always rinse your hair just with water too as a mild way of cleansing. 

I’m not going to recommend any particular shampoos etc. on this occasion, as there’s too many to list for this kind of article. Just try and find the right one for you, and remember the cheaper it is, the more likely it will contain chemicals that aren’t so great for your hair.  

 And what about the No Poo method? For anybody who hasn’t heard of this it involves switching your shampoo out just regular water and/or various natural products such as apple cider vinegar or baking soda. 

The official No Poo website states traditional shampoo contains chemicals that strip your hair of it’s natural oils. 

Some dermatologists say No Poo is pretty low risk, but others have said that there are some risks linked with replacing shampoo with other ingredients and they suggest to dilute the most popular ones, baking soda and apple cider vinegar with water, especially with baking soda’s PH level being around 9 which isn’t good for the cuticle, in turn making the hair quite brittle, especially on chemically treated hair. 

Apple cider vinegar has a much lower pH (between 3.1 to five) and is regarded as more ideal by NO Poo supporters as it's closer to your scalp's natural pH level. If the vinegar isn't mixed with the right amount water, it can also cause irritation.

So what do you do Neil I hear you cry? I naturally have very curly, dry hair and I find if I don’t shampoo it everyday then my hair and scalp behave better. When I’ve shampooed it everyday I’ve found my hair doesn’t behave as well. 

I can get a dry scalp and occasionally suffer from psoriasis and I take a shower everyday and whilst I don’t shampoo my hair everyday, I do rinse it with water thoroughly and I also rinse with cold water afterwards.  The cold water is very soothing for the irritated scalp. 

When my scalp is severely irritated I will shampoo with a mild, low-sulphate shampoo. 

I hope all that helps. 

 NB: If any scalp conditions worsen or hair becomes very brittle and unmanageable then I suggest to go and see a reputable trichologist. 

 Phillip Kingsley is a great trichology company and they have offices in London and New York. 

There’s a great article written last year about for Dermatology News No sulphates, no parabens, No poo etc. if you fancy a read, CLICK HERE

 


2nd May 2019

SHAMPOOING THE DEBATE!

SHOULD I, SHOULDN’T I, AND HOW OFTEN?? 

 I’m always being asked about shampooing and there are so many different theories out there.  

I always get asked the following: Should I shampoo my hair at all? is No poo better?, is no sulphates better?, are lo –sulphates better?, is washing my hair everyday bad for it?   

Ok, so here’s the advice I try to give out when it comes to shampooing. 

The hardest things to do as a hairdresser is tell somebody how to shampoo their hair. 

The majority of people love to pile on the product to get a soapy lather like the old hair ads, and then they pile on a load of conditioner especially if their hair is really dry, don’t leave it on long enough or too long, then rinse it off and hey presto, they’re done! But is this the best way??   

Here’s my advice based on what I know.  None of the following info is incorrect, but it’s important to remember that what is good for you is different for every person and their hair.  

Ph: Corinne Day

Ph: Corinne Day

Ph: Alexi Lubomirski

Ph: Alexi Lubomirski

WELCOME TO MY NEW LOOK WEBSITE.......

Illustration by Nuno Da Costa

Illustration by Nuno Da Costa

13th April 2019

Thanks for visiting my new look website. It’s been a while since I was active on neilmoodie.com and we’re back with a new look, new content and a new picture of me too…….. Hope you like it all.

Since leaving Windle & Moodie in January 2018, I have been busy working on some new projects including a brand new podcast series called In Bed With Neil Moodie, which launched on 25th March 2019 a new IGTV/YouTube series: The Alphabet of Hair, plus this my brand new website neilmoodie.com

With “ In Bed With Neil Moodie” I’m interviewing close friends and colleagues who I’ve worked with and met over the last 25 years of being in the fashion/beauty industry, focusing around the professional and personal life stories of certain individuals who are trailblazing and think outside the box.

The Alphabet of Hair is a series of Youtube and IGTV videos, tackling every letter with a hair subject, hair issue or problem,  hopefully giving you informative details, and passing on the best of knowledge to you about each subject . 

Throughout the series I’ll be bringing in special hair guests to talk about certain subjects, which are more their expertise, where I’ll probably be learning stuff too. 

Once we get to Z, I’ll be going back to the beginning of the alphabet and starting all over again with new subjects, although I can tell you now, certain letters,  ie: X Y & Z have proven to be a little trickier in finding subjects, so I’m not gonna lie and let you know now, that I’ve cheated a little with the harder ones, but don’t worry, they’re all still worthy subjects to discuss and tackle

And as for the website, I’ll be bringing you weekly news and exciting content. Oh and by the way, I’ve posted some of my old Q&A’s with top models, stylists, make-up artists and hairdressers in the fashion industry as these were some of the most popular content from my old site so I thought it would be good to keep them here incase anyone else fancies a read.

So enjoy, go listen to one of my podcast episodes, watch one of my new A-Z videos or just follow me on Instagram and I’ll be back soon.

Weekly news will be posted every Monday with the occasional intermittent post if something important pops up! ,

See ya next week.

Neil xx

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